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Istanbul is a city that trades in contrasts—East and West, history and modernity—and its layers go deep. Byzantine cisterns, Ottoman palaces, and a young, fashion-obsessed creative scene all share the same hills. You can spend the morning in a mosque from the 1500s, the afternoon haggling over antique jewelry in the Grand Bazaar, and the evening on a rooftop watching the Bosphorus turn gold.
It’s a city that feels almost unknowable. I returned in August, and I was lucky to see the city through the eyes of some people who know it best: Sinan Sökmen, author of Monday to Sunday Istanbul and founder of Istanbul Tour Studio, showed me around the city’s best-known spots and under-the-radar gems; and Sinan’s longtime friend, Ayşem Erginoğlu, guided me through some of my favorite shopping discoveries, from antiques to jewelry, in the iconic Grand Bazaar and beyond.
For this month’s Insider Guide, I’ve also drawn on the favorites of Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu, who suggested a few more must-visit addresses, too. Throw in a few visits to the city’s famed hammams and you’ve got a city that blends history, shopping, and the best that two continents have to offer—an irresistible mix.
BEST TIME TO GO:
Istanbul works in every season, but spring and early fall are ideal, with mild weather perfect for wandering. Summer is glorious on the Bosphorus—especially if you’re stopping here on your way to glamorous, jet-set Bodrum—though it can be hot, and winter sees the city at its moodiest.
Getting there has never been easier, withTurkish Airlines connecting Istanbul with the entire world. It’s a fantastic airline: the seats are great, the space is ample. And the service is attentive, with an extensive and interesting menu that makes your in-flight meal part of the trip. My tip? Opt for a pass to the iGA–JETEX Premium Passenger Terminal, which includes fast-tracked immigration, personalized arrival and departure services, and a lounge so incredible you won’t want to leave. Even the longest journeys feel seamless.
Whenever you visit, you must schedule a private boat tour on the Bosphorus—ask your hotel or Sinan to arrange one. Seeing the waterfront palaces, wooden houses, and both shores from the water is the best way to understand how this layered, historic city fits together. Our boat ride was the highlight of the trip, and no matter the time of year, I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
Sleep
- Çirağan Palace Kempinski: This is where I stayed on my most recent trip, and it’s an experience I won’t forget. There is something extraordinary about waking up in a former Ottoman imperial palace overlooking the Bosphorus. The setting is spectacular, and the hotel’s hospitality feels personal and gracious. For dining, don’t miss Tuğra for Ottoman fine dining, or Rüya for contemporary Anatolian cooking with a view.
- Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus, Istanbul: Set directly on the Bosphorus, this is a contemporary take on Istanbul luxury, complete with lush gardens and waterfront dining that make the most of the location. The hotel also has its own pier that makes exploring by boat particularly easy. Guest rooms are spacious and sleek, and almost all have panoramic views of the river.
- Soho House Istanbul, Beyoğlu: Housed in a 19th-century palazzo that once served as the American Consulate, Soho House brings a different kind of energy to Istanbul’s hotel scene—less palace, more vibey and current. Think stylish interiors and a central location in hip Beyoğlu—a particularly good option if you take your hotels with a side of socializing.
Also try:
Dine
Breakfast:
- Mangerie: Set in the lovely waterfront area of Bebek, Mangerie is a great place to begin the day. Come for a coffee and a relaxed breakfast before taking a walk along the Bosphorus.
- Şark Kahvesi: For something a little more traditional, seek out this café, a mainstay of the Grand Bazaar since 1958. It’s filled with ancient stone archways—perfect for fueling up as you prepare for some shopping.
- Pierre Loti Café: Named after the French writer who famously loved Istanbul, this café is known for panoramic views over the Golden Horn. Come for the scenery, stay for the strong coffee.
Lunch:
- Pandeli Restaurant: Tucked away in the Spice Market, Pandeli is one of those rare historic restaurants that still feel absolutely worth it. It’s a favorite of designer Dilara Findikoglu, with its beautiful walls covered in traditional blue Turkish tiles and old-school Turkish cooking.
- Aslan Lokantasi: Founded in 1986 and located near the Grand Bazaar, this lunch spot is a wonderful introduction to traditional Ottoman cooking and many of the city’s historic sites. It’s set in a low-key second-floor space that feels blissfully removed from the hustle and bustle.
- Cuma: Located in Çukurcuma, a charming neighborhood filled with antique shops and winding streets, Cuma is the perfect spot for an elevated lunch. The interiors are cozy and the leafy front terrace is a gorgeous setting on warm days.
- Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi: Also known as The Culinary Arts Academy of Istanbul, the MSA operates a training restaurant inside the Sakıp Sabancı Museum that is, surprisingly, one of Istanbul’s best spots for lunch. Sit back and enjoy views of the Bosphorus as Istanbul’s rising culinary talents put their skills to work, turning out thoughtful, seasonal menus as considered as the museum’s collections.
Dinner:
- Aman da Bravo: A Michelin-recognized restaurant in Bebek, Aman da Bravo is a lovely destination if you appreciate thoughtful cooking in a beautiful setting. Female chef İnanç Çelengil leads the way with a market-driven, seasonal menu. Request a table in the garden and you’ll be treated to one of the most romantic settings in all of Istanbul.
- Lacivert Restaurant: One of my favorite dining experiences in Istanbul, Lacivert has an extraordinary waterfront setting on the Bosphorus that feels especially magical in the evening. It’s known for its distinct “Respect for the Local” approach, which highlights the best of the best local suppliers.
- Simone: Book a table at this new Taksim hotspot that has everyone talking—it’s situated on one of the city’s most well-positioned rooftops, with a Mediterranean menu worthy of the views, and just enough of a scene.
Also try:
Discover
- Basilica Cistern: This is, without question, one of my favorite places in Istanbul, and Dilara agrees. Built during the Byzantine era to store fresh water for the city, this cistern is an extraordinary underground world of ancient columns with a very dark and magical atmosphere. You may recognize it as the setting of a pivotal sequence in classic James Bond film From Russia with Love. Do not miss it.
- Hagia Sophia: One of the most iconic buildings in the world, Hagia Sophia deserves all the hype. Its extraordinary architecture and layered history reflect the many civilizations that have shaped this city over the centuries. You could spend hours taking in all the details.
- Hürrem Sultan Hammam: No visit to Istanbul is complete without experiencing the age-old tradition of Turkish bathing. Dilara recommends this stunning, traditional hammam, which dates back to the 1500s.
- Topkapi Palace: For centuries, Topkapi was home to the Ottoman sultans. Walking through its courtyards, ornate archways, and private rooms, you get a sense of just how much intrigue played out inside these walls. The treasury alone is worth a look. Give yourself a few hours here as there is a lot to see. In summer, night tours are offered, which elevate the property’s cinematic sense of drama.
- Sakıp Sabancı Museum: Housed in a mansion overlooking the Bosphorus, this museum is a great excuse to get out of the city center and see another side of Istanbul. Its renowned collection spans Ottoman calligraphy and paintings, alongside a rotating lineup of contemporary art exhibitions. Leave a little time to enjoy the gardens and views.
Also try:
Shop
- A La Turca: This four-story home design showroom spans antiques, textiles, flat-weave kilim rugs, and beautiful design objects. Founder Erkal Aksoy has impeccable taste, and browsing his encyclopedic collection of European and Turkish treasures feels less like shopping than discovering things you didn’t know you needed. Don’t leave empty-handed. You will regret it.
- Kismet by Milka: Kismet by Milka is a must-visit for jewelry lovers. The designs have so much brilliance and personality, and it’s a great place to discover something that feels truly different from what you might find elsewhere.
- Kismetce: Known for high-end, symbolic items rooted in ancient history and symbolism, this Turkish home décor brand is nothing short of exquisite. Porcelain and glassware are specialties—and they offer same-day courier service to your hotel so you don’t have to carry your purchases around all day.
- Yastik by Rifat Özbek: Yastik is wonderful for textiles and interiors. Don’t miss the gorgeous throw pillows in brilliant ikat fabrics.
- Misela: I love discovering accessories from local designers when I travel, and in Istanbul, Misela is a must. The brand is known for its colorful bags and distinctive designs that span both regular collections and a made-to-order range.
- Meváris: This is the contemporary jewelry brand to know in Istanbul. From the word for “heritage” in Ottoman Turkish, Meváris interprets gorgeous stones through the lens of traditional Ottoman and Byzantine design motifs and modern designs.
- Nackiyé: Run by sisters Başak and Defne Kocabıyıkoğlu, this contemporary design brand represents the Istanbul of today: cosmopolitan, beautifully crafted, and imaginative.
- Şengör Hali: Located in the heart of the Grand Bazaar is this traditional carpet shop that is, frankly, everything you would hope for from a traditional carpet shop in the Grand Bazaar. Operated by the same family since 1918, it is considered one of the great authorities on Turkish carpets.
Also try:
Want to chat about my Insider Guide to Istanbul? Send me a note at ninagarciainsiderguide@hearst.com. I’ll see you next month. Until then, follow me at @ninagarcia on Instagram for real-time fashion and travel updates—and don’t forget to check out @elleusa too.
